Shakespeare & Company

I love books. I like reading them, holding them, borrowing them, buying them and, dare I say it, smelling them. There’s little else that I find as nice as letting a book fall open, pressing my nose into the gutter (apparently that is the proper name) and filling my lungs with the sweet smell of the decaying pages. The older the book, the better. It invokes certain early childhood memories I have of following behind my Dad while he sifted through random bits and bobs at auctions. He is constantly after that treasure hiding in a pile of seemingly useless things and he almost always finds it. I never have as much luck.

Some of the best book stores I’ve ever had the pleasure of visiting have been in Europe. My favorite of them all is Shakespeare and Company in the heart of Paris. It is in a perfect location, tucked away just off the bank of the Seine opposite Notre Dame Cathedral. In a pleasant coincidence, I discovered that its history is heavily dotted with expats just like myself.

A Brief History of Shakespeare and Company

From the time the store opened, writers, travelers, and intellectuals, affectionately referred to as “Tumbleweeds” by the owner, have been encouraged to spend the night amidst the shelves of books on couches which are used during the day by customers. In exchange for a place to sleep, these Tumbleweeds are tasked with reading a book each day, helping out in the store, and writing a one page autobiography to keep a record of all those who have passed through and the paths which led them there.

The arrangement continues today and most of the rooms, which never seem to come to an end, have something that could double as a rudimentary bed. I could get lost for an entire week inside Shakespeare and Company. Each time I manage to pull myself away, I turn to look at the storefront before leaving and wonder how this magical world fits into such a small space.

My Own Tradition

Every time I am in Paris, Shakespeare and Company is on my list of places to visit. It has become a bit of a tradition to follow in my dad’s footsteps and sift through the boxes of secondhand books outside until one catches my eye. This compulsion often frustrates the ones I am travelling with, but it is impossible for me to resist the allure.

At the counter, they always offer to stamp the inside cover of the newly purchased book and I find that I am more pleased than I should be to accept. Perhaps for those of us that travel, there’s an inexplicable affection for rubber stamps and fresh ink. There’s something so satisfying about the deep thud as the stamp meets the paper, whether it be book or passport. What is so appealing? The permanence of it? The idea of increasing one’s collection? Perhaps it’s a physical representation of the effect that travelling has on us. Each destination leaves its mark.

The Possibility of Returning

I’m never able to frequently visit Shakespeare and Company, and now with the lockdown, it may be another year before I have a chance to see Paris again. One of the last times I was at Shakespeare and Company, I bought a mug to take home with me. I often fill it with coffee in the morning, crack open a book, and hope to be transported back to its labyrinth of shelves.

Shakespeare and Company has a lot of foot traffic, it isn’t unknown, and it’s not difficult to get to. In spite of that, visiting it is possibly my favorite thing to do in Paris (if we disregard my love of wine and cheese). Before too long, hopefully things will return to normal and we’ll be able to explore again. When planning a trip to Paris, if you do one thing outside of the normal tourist sites, go to Shakespeare and Company. It won’t disappoint.

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