Updated September 2023
Have you come to Norfolk for a little UK staycation? Trying to find some towns and villages to visit after long days at the beach? Or maybe you’re just trying to escape Norwich for the day. Either way this short guide to Cley is for you.
In this guide you’ll find out everything you need to know about planning a trip to Cley including where to stay, things to do, and the food you cannot miss.
HISTORY OF CLEY
Cley next the Sea, or Claia as it was recorded in the Domesday Book (1086), is a small village on the North Norfolk coast. It is one in a cluster of port villages along the River Glaven whose history is deeply rooted in maritime trade.
As a medieval village Cley flourished due to its advantageous position and grew to be even more important than nearby Blakeney. At its height the industry was moving fish and agricultural products along the coast and reaching as far as the Mediterannean to import more exotic goods and spices.
Walking northerly into Cley from our campsite brought to light a few oddities. We reached St Margaret’s Church well before any other sign of a settlement. The impressive medieval structure seemed isolated and separate from the rest of the village which was still a half mile up the road.
This disjointed arrangement, I later learned, was due to a fire in 1612 which destroyed the majority of the buildings around the church. The rebuilding was done farther north due in part to the drainage of the marshes for agricultural purposes. As a result of this and natural silting, the river access shifted and the land, now dry(ish), could support construction.
The oldest buildings can be found at this former site near the church, now known as the Newgate area. With the exception of a few, none of the buildings in Cley’s current location are older than 17th century.
But don’t worry, what it lacks in age, it more than makes up for in character. The involvement in trade slowly decreased and by the 20th century it was replaced by tourism. A good indication of its complete transformation into a holiday hotspot is the windmill conversion to accommodation in 1921.
Pictures taken of the high street from around this time prove that not much has changed in the last 100 years giving us the sweet opportunity to step back in time.
THINGS TO DO IN CLEY NEXT THE SEA
LUNCH ON THE QUAY
When we visit Cley we love to grab lunch, sit at the edge of the marshes, and enjoy nature as it goes about its business. Depending on the weather, and our energy levels, we may follow this up with a small ice cream or a short walk.
Picnic Fayre / This delicatessen in the middle of Cley is housed in an old historic mill loaded with character. It’s perfect for buying lunch to take away or for picking up a quick snack – they also have locally made ice cream with small wooden spoons in the lids if you’re feeling indulgent.
They’re particularly famous for their pear and ginger cakes but they make the best potato salad I’ve ever had and I’ve heard good things about their chocolate Florentines and spinach feta filo pies.
Regular hours are 9 am – 5 pm, with shortened hours on Sunday (10 am – 4 pm) and Tuesday (10:30 am – 5 pm).
Cley Smokehouse / A trip to Cley is not complete until you’ve stopped by the Smokehouse to choose a few goodies to take home. The building’s curved roofline is distinctive but it’s the quality of their food which has made the shop a landmark in the village. As the name suggests, most of their products are smoked, and although you can get chicken or duck, they offer mostly seafood. From kippers to shrimp (prawns) to pate, no matter what you try, it’s bound to be delicious. And to ease your conscience, all their products are sustainably sourced and, when possible, acquired locally.
Open 9 am – 5 pm Monday to Saturday and 9:30 am – 4:30 pm on Sunday
George and Dragon / If you are looking for something more substantial after a long walk through the marshes, then you can head to the George and Dragon. The menu is pricey, but many of the ingredients are locally sourced, which makes it just a little easier when you go to settle the bill.
The pub is open every day from 11 am – 11 pm. Kitchen hours are Monday to Saturday 12:00 pm – 9 pm and Sunday 12 pm – 8 pm.
TAKE A WALK THROUGH THE MARSHES
Cley Marshes is Norfolk’s oldest and most well-known nature reserve. Totaling 430 acres of reed beds, marshland and wet meadow it is home to many species of birds and other wildlife. Don’t forget your binoculars – birdwatchers from all over the country flock here to catch a glimpse of the rare birds that visit.
If your aim is to set eyes on the marshes but not go for a long walk, then the perfect compromise is to spend some time at the visitor centre where you’ll get panoramic views, a hot cuppa, lite bites, and a browse in the book shop. For those looking to work up an appetite there are options for all levels of walkers.
3 miles | Walk from Cley to Blakeney on the Norfolk Coast Path & Peddar’s Way, waymarked and flat. (find the walk here)
6 miles | Walk from Blakeney to Salthouse via Cley on the Norfolk Coast Path & Peddar’s Way, waymarked and flat. (find the walk here)
9 miles | Circular Walk through the Glaven Port Villages of Cley, Blakeney, Morston and Wiveton. (find the walk here)
A DAY ON THE BEACH
Cley Beach / Between Cley and the coastline there are acres of marshes. The views are spectacular, but the walk to the beach from the village will take at least 20 minutes. If you want, you can drive up to the coast to the Beach Car Park (3 quid for 3 hours or 5 quid for 6 hours).
The beach is shingle (pebbles) with a steep slope down to the water. The pebbles are small enough to still be comfortable lying on a towel – I find a little wiggle helps them form around you.
Catch a glimpse of a shipwreck / From the car park, go 300 meters east and look out to sea. The cargo ship SS Vera wrecked in 1914 and bits of her can be seen at low tide. Check tide times here.
Dog walk / Dogs are allowed on Cley Beach, but because there is so much wildlife, it is essential that they are kept under close control. Between April to August there is a dog restriction zone and one must be particularly careful not to disturb the ground nesting birds in the area.
Have a beach barbecue / Cley is one of the beaches in North Norfolk which allows beach barbecues. Just be responsible, courteous, and leave no trace. Here is a list of the council’s barbecue dos and don’ts for guidance.
Top Tip // If you want to get in the sea, bring some water shoes – the shingle, though comfy to sit on, is harsh underfoot. Also, prepare to be pelted by them until you get past the breaking waves.
SEE THE SITES
Cley Windmill & Cley Quay / On the north side of the village just before you reach the marshes you’ll find the iconic 18th century Cley Windmill. Stroll by, sit beneath its sails, or book a stay in one of its guest rooms.
The windmill sits on the edge of the Quay which was the centre of activity in Cley’s heyday as a harbor village. The receding sea left the quay stranded until a restoration project in 2016 brought it back to life.
St Margaret’s Church / You’ll find this impressive medieval church on the south side of Cley where the village was originally located before the fires pushed it northward. This large and splendidly decorated church is testament to the wealth that the medieval village accumulated due to its fortuitous position.
GRAB A PINT
You only have 2 pubs to choose from in Cley: The George and Dragon and The Three Swallows.
The George and Dragon / Central and easy to get to. The George and Dragon has a modern atmosphere with a lively pub garden complete with marquis tents and fairy lights. The pub interior is newly redecorated in the North Norfolk Boutique style typical in this area. The Victorian exterior is intriguing – be sure to look at the figures above the door as you go in. The pub is dog friendly, which I find a particularly important indicator of the quality (and civility!) of a pub.
The pub is open every day from 11 am – 11 pm. Kitchen hours are Monday to Saturday 12:00 pm – 9 pm and Sunday 12 pm – 8 pm.
The Three Swallows / Near St Margaret’s Church on the edge of the village green in Newgate you’ll find The Three Swallows. It’s not as convenient, and I can’t say I’d make a huge effort to visit unless I was already around. It is dog friendly and has a large pub garden so if you are walking, it’s a decent enough stop if you’re thirsty.
Open daily from 12 pm – 11 pm
LOCAL SHOPS AND GALLERIES
Made in Cley / A quirky little pottery gallery and workshop shared by 10 artists with shelves and shelves of practical creations and crockery. I recently noticed that we, at some point, inherited a couple of bowls from here which have secretly been my favo[u]rite for years.
Open 10 am – 5 pm Monday to Saturday and 11 am – 4 pm on Sunday
Pinkfoot Gallery / North Norfolk is home to countless artists who are inspired by the landscape and local wildlife and art galleries can be found in many of the coastal villages. If you’re wanting to take a piece home, this is the art gallery to go to in Cley.
Hours are 10 am – 5 pm Tuesday to Saturday and 11 am – 4 pm on Sunday. Closed on Mondays.
Crabpot Books / Just opposite the Cley Windmill you’ll find this cozy, little bookshop. As well as a fabulous name, they have a selection of secondhand and antiquarian books to browse through. And if you are in need of an OS map, you can pop in here to see if they have what you require.
Hours are 10 am – 5 pm Friday to Tuesday, 9 am – 5 pm on Wednesday and closed Thursday.
WHERE TO STAY IN CLEY
Cley Windmill / This unique stay overlooking the marshes is a true escape. Though you’re only just on the edge of Cley, you can hear the toads singing at night and the water lapping on the banks of the quay. Staying here, there’s no doubt you’ll feel surrounded by nature.
The George & Dragon / This isn’t your typical pub stay. All 10 of the bedrooms have been given a boutique finish and 7 of them overlook the nature reserve. It is centrally located and you don’t have to go too far for a pint in the evening. Breakfast included – which is often used as a determining factor in our household when not self-catering.
HOW TO GET HERE
Like most villages, unfortunately, the easiest way to get here is to drive, but there is a bus that services the village, too.
PARKING
You have a few options for parking in Cley. Just a short walk away, there is plenty of free parking at the village hall. By parking here you may be able to avoid the traffic bottleneck which occurs in the village depending on which direction you’re arriving from.
If you are visiting the beach and you don’t want the long walk from the village, there is a car park near the coast. A pay and display ticket here is also valid for the car park at the Cley Marshes Visitor Centre. A half day ticket (3 hours) is 3 quid and one for the whole day (6 hours) is 5 quid. You can pay at either car park. Both accept card payments, but if you’re set on using coins you’ll have to purchase your ticket at the visitor centre.
BY PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Cley is accessible by public bus, but only if you are already located along the Norfolk Coast. Sanders Coaches operates two services through Cley.
- The 46 bus goes from Wells to Glandford (see timetable here).
- The Coasthopper 1 runs more frequently and goes from Wells to Cromer (see timetable here)
If you must take public transport from Norwich, the options are limited. A train will get you to Sheringham, but from there you will either have to take a taxi or Coasthopper CH1 to Cley. Alternatively you can take another Sanders bus (x44, x40, 44A) and change near Cromer to the Coasthopper CH1. The journey is about 2 hours either way.
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